The burning reality of sunscreen

For the past five years, I’ve become enamored with skincare, including protecting my skin from harmful UV rays. I used to think that the best products were manufactured in the United States and that a heftier price tag meant a higher quality product, but boy, was I wrong.

While trying out different skincare products, I was introduced to the world of Korean and French skincare — by far some of the best on the market. It didn’t break the bank, and both the quality and consistency were out of this world. Before trying Korean sunscreen, I associated sunblock with sticky, heavy goop that left the most disgusting white cast. But Korean sunscreens feel like a lightweight gel and basically vanish on the skin, which was a match made in heaven for me.

So for the last couple of years, I’ve been purchasing Korean sunscreen and enjoying every moment of it, I’ve even gotten friends and family to try it out for themselves. Besides the sunscreen feeling like nothing on the skin, it contains more filters compared to the ones made in the United States. Here’s something alarming: the FDA hasn’t approved any additional sunscreen filters since 1996. And as we know, our planet isn’t necessarily getting any healthier.

Sunscreen is labeled/considered a drug in the United States because the product claims to block UV rays, preventing cancer. That classification leads to sunscreen being regulated, meaning new ingredients or filters introduced to block harmful rays have to undergo various rounds of testing and approval.

It’s essentially a double-edged sword. The FDA has a history of asking companies to provide paperwork to show evidence of filters being effective, but the manufacturers have failed to provide them. Still, the FDA is limiting American public health by restricting access to newer, innovative and more effective ingredients already being used internationally.

One of the primary rules of skincare is to wear sunscreen to prevent both cancer and aging. For the record, I do not fear aging! I want to age with grace, but I also would rather not get any form of skin cancer. Given how often our skin is exposed to these harmful rays, it’s vital to wear sunscreen every single day. Even when you’re lounging around at home, you still make contact with the sun through your windows—plus the rays we’re exposed to through our devices, such as cellphones and computers. I feel like I sound like someone’s mother, but I take skincare seriously.

Recently, the FDA banned the filters used in my favorite sunscreens by Round Lab, Beauty of Joseon and more, causing these companies to reformulate their products to enter the American market without having to face any consequences. I also had a favorite sunscreen from Down Under, called Ultra Violette, and I was over the moon when it finally entered the American market at Sephora. But it turns out that most of the filters I cared for were stripped away to meet FDA guidelines.

In 2021, the FDA pledged to update some sunscreen regulations that would improve UVA protection, but they have yet to follow through. While the U.S. does carry some effective sunscreens like EltaMD and SkinCeuticals, they’re pricier compared to the affordable options that Korean and European sunscreens offer.

I think the biggest issue here is that public health is at stake when it comes to potentially developing skin cancer, the most common cancer in the United States, with nearly one in five Americans developing it during their lifetime. Although I have to give credit where credit is due — yes, American sunscreen is developing, but I wish the FDA had more of an open mind when it comes to improving filters. Only 35% of American sunscreens are considered efficient enough to protect against harmful rays. And I’m also a firm believer that good sunscreen should be easily accessible to everyone. It shouldn’t cost an arm and a leg to protect the largest organ on our bodies.

At the end of the day, everyone deserves access to sunscreen that works without having to decode ingredients or drop $40 every few weeks. It shouldn’t be this hard to protect our skin, especially when we know how crucial it is. I’m hopeful that one day the U.S. will catch up and give us options that are not only affordable and accessible but effective. Until then, I’ll keep side-eyeing my TSA liquid limits and stocking up on my favorites whenever I can during my travels.

Skincare is self-care, but it’s also healthcare.